A Classic British Staycation
Located off the south coast of England, the Isle of Wight is known for its mild microclimates, sandy beaches, and rich dinosaur history, and it still ranks among the top 10 staycation destinations for UK holiday-makers today. In September, just as the summer season came to an end, we booked a 4-night stay in Ventnor to explore what this island, so close to home, had to offer us. In all honesty, we were expecting knotted hankies, buckets and spades, and probably a little less luxury than we usually book when we choose destinations. The 'snob' in us was definitely winning, and we couldn't see the Island's appeal before we set sail. However, it proved to be a destination full of surprises.
The Botanist Rest
Located on South Street in Ventnor, we discovered a delightful '2 up - 2 down' terraced home on Booking.com and booked a 4-night, Tuesday-to-Saturday stay. Cost: £550 approx.
Free overnight on-road parking in Ventnor can be a challenge, but the house was only a short walk from the central town car park. We booked a four-day parking pass for £40, which meant we could park around the Island in most council car parks at no extra cost, and it included the overnight parking we needed close to the house. Being slightly uphill from town meant we had absolute peace and quiet every night, which everyone on the street respected.
Ventnor
A small town with its own microclimate, Ventnor is home to a botanic garden, some amazing places to eat, and steep terraced architecture. You will need a car or good walking boots just to navigate the zigzag of roads and paths that twist upward and inland. Dinner at The Smoking Lobster was worth the price tag, and served tapas-style, with small plates and an exceedingly good bottle of wine. Fresh food, great quality, and amazing hospitality. We may have over-indulged, so for the rest of the week we ate at home to redress the balance.
Ryde
On a previous day trip to the Island, we had landed near Ryde, and the town's seafront had given us an incorrect impression of the whole island. Ryde is a mixture of incredible wealth and blatant poverty, encapsulating the stark socioeconomic divide found across the Island. If Ryde were a pub, it would be the local Wetherspoon's, with louder voices, more police presence, and less appeal than towns further along the coastline. Similarly, we felt Newport to be similar to Ryde. The pockets of poverty sit side by side with extreme wealth and affluence.
To be fair, we did stop in a great coffee shop, find an escape room in a real church crypt, and visit a seafront arcade that would suit many families on vacation in Ryde. The sandy beach definitely lends itself to building some sandcastles.
Shanklin & Sandown
These are two of the most popular neighbouring seaside resort towns located on Sandown Bay, with Shanklin famous for its Old Village and Chine. Think picture postcard shops and cottages, with a beautiful waterfall walk down the Shanklin Chine, and you would be on point.
The Sandown beach & esplanade are another example of regeneration. The 400-meter amusement pier, complete with bowling, dodgems, and mini-golf, combined with a fabulous beach for pebble hunting, is a stark contrast to the length of derelict yet majestic buildings on the opposite side of the promenade.
The Needles
We succumbed to the hype and visited The Needles because a visit to the Island seemed incomplete without us at least taking a peek. What we hadn't planned was taking the chair lift down to the beach on a windy day, and back up again - after racing around the waves on a high-speed jet boat. There is a slower cruise around at half the price if you want to take things easier.
The Needles Pleasure Park is family-oriented, featuring an amusement park and a heritage site, perched above the iconic coloured-sand cliffs of Alum Bay. Once down on Alum Bay, you can appreciate the dramatic cliff face which displays numerous distinct natural colours created by minerals interacting with iron and clay deposits. When on the beach, heed the no-climbing signs because the cliffs have collapsed and did so a few days earlier. This did not stop the lift manager having to shout down the beach at some visitors who still felt the need to climb around.
Cowes to Yarmouth and Beyond
We managed to drive around the whole island during our stay, and across the centre. Colwell Bay was windy and wild on the night we arrived, so we braved the level walk along to Totland. It seemed quieter than the other beaches, yet boasted plenty of holiday accommodation and kayaking rentals.
The Isle of Wight Donkey Sanctuary is a little inland from Ventnor and offers free entry and parking. The on-site cafe sales support the adorable donkeys, and donations are voluntary and gratefully received. Also situated between Ryde and Newport is Butterfly World, where you can walk among hatched butterflies and watch caterpillars climb. It was a little run-down at the end of the season and could benefit from some refurbishment, but we enjoyed the butterflies landing on us as we wandered through.
Throughout the week, we tried to see as much of the island as we could, visiting Cowes and Fishbourne, having taken the car across on the ferry. Additionally, the Island has a good bus network, and most places are easy to reach with frequent services. Yes, the Island does have an expanding older population with many people retiring there from the mainland. House prices are keen in many areas, even though work is scarce, especially out of season. If you are lucky enough to be able to work from anywhere, the Island has a lot to offer, and we can see why it attracts those who can afford to settle.
After wondering whether the Island was worth us visiting, we realised we would actually need more time to see everything on our list. So, if you are planning a visit, allow yourself enough time to enjoy each town and explore all the attractions the Island has to offer. We went from sceptics to explorers, and we would certainly return again to pick up where we left off because we hardly scratched the surface. Travelling across the Solent via ferry, especially with a car is not cheap, and the Island is quite an expensive stay, especially in the summer months. But if you choose quieter sailings and shop around for accommodation, especially off season, it can work on a budget.
The Isle of Wight Official Guide is a great place to start planning your visit.